Under The Tuscan Sun: Cortona and BeyondI greeted everyone with sleepy eyes and a "buongiorno." After a fabulous cocktail hour at the Hotel San Michele and a delicious 4 course meal at Osteria del Teatro in Cortona, our group had stumbled into bed the night before full to the gills with Tuscan faire, and libation. A private seating area, two visits from the chef and explanation of pairings throughout the meal left us feeling spoiled and happy. This morning, the lingering effects of our gluttony was apparent. Nevertheless, on time and willing, we walked down through the charming mideaval streets of Cortona to wherevour chariot awaited us. I use this term quite loosely...more on that in a bit. First stop near the town of Montepulciano was Winery Poliziano where we were welcomed by a friendly staff, and an impressively designed modern tasting room with glass doors, polished rose and purple marble countertops and clean lines. Our tour took us throughout the sizable maze of underground barrel rooms and through the "wine library" which featured some of the property's best vinages in assorted sizes and obligatory dust on the bottles. When asked how much one such selection might be to purchase, the response was quite clearly "priceless" as these were the private collection, kept only for collecting data on aging processes and more pleasing to hear; for the family's use on special occasions. We were however not meant to be dissapointed as we were taken promptly to a few mouthwatering selections of Rosso, Nobile and a unique blend grown off the dry rocky coast: their Super Tuscan paired with Pecorino cheese. I selcted a bottle of the Asinone which affectionately means " big donkey" to take back home as it's one tasty ass to be certain! Next up, as we wound through the fertile green hues rolling hillsides of of Tuscany, was lunch in Montepulciano at the historical Gattavechi which featured a charming terrace with view. 5 courses later we were begging for a break from the gorgeous September sun and some space to digest, yet again. Feeling very much like baccus, we took shelter in the cave beneath the winery and enjoyed a history lesson on the Etruscan beginnings the destruction of WWII and the proud legacy of a grandson who is very connected with his birthright of winemaking.
We transferred to the lovely town of Pienza and some private time to enjoy some shopping, gelato, conversations with the locals and exploration down the winding streets of this tiny Renaissance gem with only 2000 inhabitants. I found a beautiful church and slipped inside to pray (mainly in thanks for the opportunity to be here in such pleasant company, but also; for protection on the bus ride .) I wonder if there will ever be a journey through the tiny winding roads that I am not naturally gritting my teeth? I think the outlook is bleak as this has become admittedly, an expected part of the adventure which is: driving in Italy. I thought that we were all pretty pooped, but Sara had a real treat in store for us. The organic farm of il Casale put every other panorama to shame. I took 20 pictures of just the view and refuse to post a single one as the beauty could simply not be captured. Sitting there with the owner, a Swiss immigrant and his family; we were inspired the the farmers connection with his land, the deep concern for his animals, and the hard sharing of what it means to be both the caretaker and the taker of life. A true respect for the sacrifice that ultimately fills ones plate had us all contemplative and grateful as we enjoyed our final wine pairing of the day with 10 different small selections of sheep, goat and mixed raw milk Pecorino cheese for which the region is known. What a long and wonderful day of enjoyment by way of gastronomy.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |